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EVEREST BASE CAMP - 30 years in the making

Pete Schaumburg

Embarking on the journey to Everest Base Camp is not merely a decision made on a whim.

Pete Schaumburg is our Queensland Regional Engineering Manager and for him it was a culmination of thirty years of longing and preparation.

The journey to Everest Base Camp commenced at least six months prior to departure from Australian shores. Medical evaluations were undertaken, though the doctor’s skeptical response, “Are you sure you really want to do this?” hardly bolstered confidence. Nevertheless, armed with a handful of prescriptions, a regimen of prescribed medications would hopefully help me against the rigours of the expedition.

Selections of appropriate gear, from boots to backpacks, became paramount considerations alongside other fitness routines comprising of spinning sessions, mountain treks around the Sunshine Coast and pre-dawn walks. Whilst I did a lot of trekking, it was all at sea level which was not ideal as I came to discover.

I had a rough start to the trip. A last-minute stomach bug incapacitated my wife Danielle, necessitating an early morning dash up the coast before heading back to Brisbane International Airport to meet up with my son Joel. I arrived back to the international terminal just in time and met up with my son Joel who was joining me on this adventure. Despite the earlier chaos, our 12-hour flight concluded with our arrival in Kathmandu, signalling the beginning of an unforgettable journey.

We had just landed and I was overcome with dehydration and nausea, having spent most of the flight battling a stomach bug, likely contracted from Danielle. Despite our Sherpa’s suggestion that we could commence the trek immediately the next day, I wisely decided to wait a couple of days to recover and see the sights. The stark realities of Nepalese life, with its dilapidated roads and erratic power supply, provided a stark contrast to the western conveniences we are used to.

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On the third day, we left Kathmandu aboard a small Dornier 228 aircraft. With weight restrictions tight, seats were removed if unoccupied, highlighting the importance of every ounce. Despite the cacophony of noise within the plane, the provided personal protective equipment was merely cotton wool, distributed by the flight attendant.

As we ventured further from Kathmandu, it became evident, as our guide confirmed, that roads were non-existent. Instead, travel consisted of footpaths, with travellers carrying their belongings on their backs. Yaks or occasional horses were the sole exceptions to this rule, traversing the rugged terrain alongside us.

We flew to Lukla, home to one of the world’s most dangerous airports. Nestled amidst towering mountains, you land up a hill and you take-off over a precipitous drop. Did I mention the runway is really short? Measuring a mere 527 metres in length and situated at an altitude of approximately 3000 metres, it’s a nerve-wracking experience for even the most seasoned travellers.

Upon arriving in Lukla, Joel and I were ready to commence our trek. Laden with our daily provisions, we followed our porter, who shouldered an impressive 30 kilograms of gear in addition to his own load. After a strenuous 3½-hour trek, we reached our first night’s accommodation - a modest room with two single beds, albeit with the luxury of an ensuite. Here, amidst basic amenities, we learned of the unique waste disposal practices, with only organic material permitted down the septic system and all toilet paper disposed of in a nearby bucket.

The next morning we faced our toughest challenge yet as we ascended to approximately 4100 metres.

The journey was gruelling, characterised by relentless climbs and countless stairs. However, amidst the physical exertion, we were rewarded with our first glimpse of Mount Everest, albeit obscured by the surrounding trees.

During this arduous trek, we crossed paths with a remarkable local from Lukla - a resilient woman in her sixties. Laden with a heavy load of vegetables weighing around 20 kilograms, she embarked on the same journey we undertook in a single day, a feat that typically took us three. She was truly awe-inspiring as she trekked to the markets in Namche Bazar to sell her produce which supports her family for an entire week.

Day 5 served as a rest day for acclimatisation. With two nights at the same spot, we left our packs behind and ascended 400 metres before descending, helping to prevent altitude sickness. We also encountered a Nepalese army post and watched the soldiers play volleyball, which showed off their acclimatisation to the high altitude.

We began our trek early the next morning to avoid the crowds, ascending approximately 400 metres in altitude. While the climb was not steep, we traversed higher over ridges, witnessing the landscape transition from trees to shrubs. The day brought light rain, adding to the difficulty of the climb.

On Day 7, at 2:30am, my son Joel began vomiting. The cause remained unknown, though altitude sickness or food poisoning were suspected. Regardless, the outcome was the same. The Sherpa swiftly decided to medivac him off the mountain to Kathmandu as soon as possible. By 11:00am local time, Joel was airlifted by helicopter and transported back to the hospital in Kathmandu. After spending the night under medical observation, he was discharged the following day and returned to the motel for additional rest and recuperation. To lift his spirits, we treated him to cocktails at his favourite restaurant; after all, he was only 19.

After a day of recovery, we journeyed to Gorak Shep, dropped our bags and proceeded to Everest Base Camp, about two hours away. The sparse vegetation and thunder-like noise, actually from ice cracking, created a tumultuous atmosphere. Nonetheless, the breathtaking scenery, accentuated by frequent avalanches, left us in awe. Upon reaching Base Camp, we were met with a slight disappointment.

The actual Base Camp consisted of a large graffitied boulder, leaving much to be desired. The true Basecamp, reserved for serious climbers, lay an additional 20 minutes away.

After capturing some photos, we returned to our camp to spend the night. During dinner, the Sherpa checked my resting heart rate, which stood at 118 bpm. Concerned, he arranged for a helicopter to medivac me down the mountain the following day.

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After a day of recovery, we journeyed to Gorak Shep, dropped our bags and proceeded to Everest Base Camp, about two hours away. The sparse vegetation and thunder-like noise, actually from ice cracking, created a tumultuous atmosphere. Nonetheless, the breathtaking scenery, accentuated by frequent avalanches, left us in awe. Upon reaching Base Camp, we were met with a slight disappointment.

The actual Base Camp consisted of a large graffitied boulder, leaving much to be desired. The true Basecamp, reserved for serious climbers, lay an additional 20 minutes away.

After capturing some photos, we returned to our camp to spend the night. During dinner, the Sherpa checked my resting heart rate, which stood at 118 bpm. Concerned, he arranged for a helicopter to medivac me down the mountain the following day.

Day 8 was fraught with challenges as the helicopter intended for medivac couldn’t reach us due to thick cloud cover. Forced to descend to another tea house, my struggle with altitude sickness intensified, leaving me with virtually no appetite.

was fraught with challenges as the helicopter intended for medivac couldn’t reach us due to thick cloud cover. Forced to descend to another tea house, my struggle with altitude sickness intensified, leaving me with virtually no appetite.

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By Day 9, the weather had cleared, allowing the helicopter to reach us. Although my resting heart rate had improved, protocol dictated that the medivac must proceed once initiated. The flight back to Lukla, a mere 10 minutes, contrasted sharply with the potential two-day trek.

Upon reaching Kathmandu, I was met by an ambulance and promptly taken to the hospital, where I received 1 ½ litres of fluid to address dehydration and altitude sickness. The following day, I was discharged and reunited with Joel at the motel.

Despite the ordeal, Joel’s thoughtful planning allowed us to enjoy a day exploring Kathmandu, discovering places with happy hours before our journey home.

Embarking on the Everest Base Camp trek fulfilled a lifelong dream, one that had been brewing for three decades. Despite the challenges and setbacks encountered along the way, it was awesome to experience the sheer magnificence of the Himalayas.

Would I undertake this adventure again? Without a doubt. However, reflecting on the experience, I would approach it with better preparation, including altitude training and allocating more time for acclimatisation to ensure a smoother ascent.

I am also reminded of the invaluable lesson learned: the importance of appropriate travel insurance. The unexpected expenses incurred during the medivac operation serve as a stark reminder of the unpredictable nature of adventure.

Tick that one off the bucket list, indeed!

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Peter Schaumburg SML

Pete Schaumburg

QLD Regional Engineering Manager, NIOA

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